Craft Name: Chikankari Embroidery
Region: Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh
CRAFT
HISTORY
Chikankari is one of India’s most refined hand-embroidery traditions, believed to have flourished under the Mughal court in the 16th–17th centuries. Often linked to Noor Jahan, it evolved as a delicate white-on-white embroidery on fine muslin, perfect for the hot climate of Awadh. The craft drew inspiration from Persian aesthetic sensibilities and Mughal architectural motifs, leading to graceful floral patterns and lattice-like textures. After the fall of Mughal patronage, the craft survived within Lucknow’s artisan communities through domestic production.
WHAT MAKES IT UNIQUE:
- Known for delicate hand-stitches, shadow work (bakhiya), and fine threadwork.
- Features 36+ delicate stitches like shadow work, phanda, murri, and jaali
Received a
GI tag
COLOURS
- Traditionally white-on-white
- Now also soft pastels (pinks, peaches, mint, sky blue) for contemporary wear
How much time does it take to make a product, and how many artisans are involved in making this craft?
A Chikankari piece takes 5–20 days, worked on by 1–3 artisans
MOTIFS
- Floral themes: jasmine, rose, mango leaf, lotus
- Paisleys and creepers
- Jali (mesh) created by thread-pulling
RAW MATERIAL
- Fabrics: muslin, mulmul, voile, chiffon, georgette, organza, cotton
- White cotton threads and pastel shades
- Wooden blocks and washable blue ink for design transfer
CRAFT MAKING PROCESS
HOW TO IDENTIFY GENUINE CHIKANKARI
- Fine, delicate hand-stitches with visible variation (machine work looks uniform).
- Soft shadow effect (bakhiya) on the front, heavier stitches on the back.
- Jali with hand-pulled threads, never created with cutting.
- Patterns look airy, not bulky or raised like imitation embroidery.